Monster Paint Club: Hills and Trees
Monster Fight Club currently offers remarkable and durable tabletop scenery sets for your RPG and Miniature Wargames needs. Though our fully painted sets are a very attractive offer to new hobbyists who want a full and beautiful table out of the box, we thought it would be valuable to our Hobby Veterans who see these amazing pieces as blank canvases to work their magic.
For those interested in taking brush to a set of hobby terrain, Monster Fight Club now proudly offers all of our plastic sets as unpainted sets for a great price.
Just starting on your journey to becoming an expert scenery painter? We've got you covered. Follow along as we take Monster Scenery Hills and Trees from blank to beautiful!
Supplies:
Preparing your scenery:
Making sure your scenery pieces are free from dust loose particles, proceed to set up in a well ventilated area, and spray a thin and complete coat of color, allowing sides to dry before turning them over to complete all sides.
Once dry, your pieces are now ready for painting.
Basecoating:
Using a large hobby brush, apply a thin layer of color to your scenery piece. For these hills we have chosen a dark grey.
After two thin coats, we allow the hills to dry completely.
Drybrushing:
A great technique for terrain painting is the trusty “DRYBRUSH”. The goal is to use a broad brush, once you have color on it, to wipe away paint until only a small amount of color comes off on your pallet or on some paper towels.
Using a lighter color grey for the stone, apply the paint in quick strokes against the major lines of detail on the model. The color should hit all the raised areas of the terrain. Repeat this step with gradually lighter colors to your own taste, in this example we have used two steps by adding white to our lighter color.
Painting Trees
Monster Scenery trees are found in two main pieces, trunks and the leafy canopies. We prepare the trunk and canopies in the same ways as with the rocks. Preparing the trunks, we basecoated the trunk with a dark brown color.
To get a rich looking canopy in a verdant green, we instead drybrush a dark emerald green over the black, allowing the black to show through in the recesses of the leaves to give us more depth.
Further drybrushed coats of increasingly brighter greens give more depth to the leafy canopies, focusing the lighter colors in smaller and smaller circles, avoiding the recesses and picking out the raised areas.
For a final pass, we drybrushed the tree trunk with a cool brown/grey to look like weathered bark.
Advanced Detailing:
Experienced hobbyists and fans of modelling will be happy to see what great effects you can get from a little extra work on our scenery pieces.
With a little bit of white craft glue (PVA), add equal parts water and glue and mix thoroughly. This watered glue mixture can be easily applied with an old paint brush to the flat areas of the rocks tops.
Taking your modelling sand, gently sprinkle the sand over the wet glue and allow time to completely dry.
Apply a thinned coat of your basecoat color of choice, we chose a dark brown to make the texture a bit more earthy. Allow to dry.
Drybrushing a further coat of lighter color to pick out the great texture that your sand provides will really stand out on your finished piece.
Adding Static Grass
Static grass is sold at most hobby model stores and online in a wide variety of colors. We have chosen 2 different colors for this set of models, a bright spring green, and a dryer looking mix.
Making some more diluted craft glue, and using an old craft brush, apply thin coats of the glue mixture to the areas you want to adhere your grass.
